Tubulars use presta valves.
Most people find expensive tubulars too expensive for recreational riding...but cheap tubulars are distinctly inferior to good clinchers, particularly in that they tend to be lumpy and crooked.
Comparing high-quality tubulars with clincher , including the rims, tubes, etc, tubulars save about 50 grams per wheel...but your bike winds up heavier, because you really need to carry a complete spare tubular, as opposed to a tube and/or a patch kit. This doesn't apply if the team car is carrying spare wheels/bikes for you.
If you don't glue your tubulars on properly, they can roll off, causing you to crash. If you get a flat on the road, you can't glue your spare securely, since the glue needs to dry overnight; as a result, you have to ride very gingerly on your spare, taking it really easy on the curves and descents. If you get two flats on the same ride, you're screwed.
Some people believe that tubulars corner better in the rain...but I never go fast on wet roads anyway. If you flat in the rain with tubulars, your ride is over, because there's no way to make a wet tubular stick to a wet rim.
Tubulars are fairly immune to "snake-bite" rim cuts, and may offer slightly better "suspension" action than comparable clinchers. Their rolling resistance is actually worse than good clinchers in most cases, due to flex of the glued section.
Standard size tubular tires use a rim that corresponds in diameter to a 622 mm (700C) clincher rim.
Back in the 1970s, 622 mm clinchers were very rare in the U.S., and most sporty bikes used either 630 mm (27 inch) clinchers, or standard (622 mm) tubulars.
The fact that these sizes are so close led to an in-accurate habit of referring to "27 inch" tubulars. This careless nomenclature still causes confusion, and people often imagine that there is a different "27 inch" size in tubulars as there is in clinchers.
This is not true. THERE IS ACTUALLY NO SUCH THING AS A "27 INCH" TUBULAR.
All full-size tubulars fit all full-size tubular rims.
There are smaller size tubulars, "26 inch", "24 inch" and even smaller, but those are VERY uncommon, mainly used for children's race bikes, which hardly exist at all in the U.S.
Copy from Sheldon Brown Website
is a 50/34 compact crank good or should i find smaller or can you post a faq about a good setup for hills thank guys
Reply:
50/34 is the smallest for any double crank setup, but you can go larger with your cogs, 12t/27t for Shimano without replacing your rear derailluer. If you want anything bigger than 27t your option will be a long cage rear derl which can be expensive (for larger 10spd cogs) if you have 10 spd setup. Another option is go triple for extra gears but you have to replaced rear brake/shift lever & rear derailluer. Campi have more setup option with their double because they have 3 sizes for their rear der'l. cage. Example: Their medium cage can go for 12t/29t easily. Check link below of gear ratio comparison. I hope this answer your questions.
Compact Gearing Charts